26

Arafat and Barak have left Camp David without an agreement.

I don't know if the others care or not, but no one mentions the report in the Jerusalem Post this morning, and I don't try to bring it up as Sol points at various ruins through the van windshield.

"You see here the forts ofthe Crusaders. The Arabs take over these lands in 648, and when the Crusaders is coming to conquer the Holy Land back from them, the Christians don't trust nobody, so they have to have the fortresses. "

We pass a McDonald's but he doesn't point that out.

"The Crusaders is staying for 240 years, but in 1187, there is the dry summer, and the Arabs is setting all the grasses afire. When the Crusaders is fleeing from the fortress, the Arabs kill them one at a time. The survivors sail away and they don't come back."

He stops the van. "Here we are at Capernaum, the home of Jesus and Peter. They go out and come back here many times. It is the very rich city during Roman times because it is on the Via Marius. Five of the apostles is from Capernaum. Maybe more, but the Bible mentions five."

He gestures at an Arab in a kiosk. "Here is the other good place to buy water at a dollar a bottle."

Then he looks at me.

"Did you notice that we have our money in shekels and in dollars? Most countries have only their own coins, but we have both. It is showing the close ties between America and Israel. All right. Everybody out."